Looking up a tree
Not THE big tree, but still big
Almost at Kettlespout Waterfall
Kettlespout
Zooty, Basti, Terry at St Patrick
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A day trip to Hogsback
on the 13 January 2009
Terry, Tony, and the boys dragged themselves
from their beds and into the car. Tyres, oil, water and petrol had been checked, and all that was necessary
was to get to Hogsback. Onto the freeway from East London, 60 km to King Williams Town, and then left
at King Williams Town, and right for 60 km. Shortly before Alice, turn right. And then look out for
Hogsback, 30 km further. Easy enough.
In true South African and Eastern Cape tradition, our country villages are that tiny that they can be missed
if travelling at speed. However, most South African villages can be seen from a distance, if one is looking out for
them. And in true South African tradition, there is an exception to all rules.
Hogsback is the small village exception.
The road leading into Hogsback winds its way upward, with a lush overgrown cliff-face on the left,
and a fast receding rest of South Africa waaaaay down there, on the right.
There is no sign that says "WELCOME TO HOGSBACK".
There are no dusty-gardened homes on the village outskirts.
There is no traffic cop waiting under a tree just before you get into the village.
You're halfway thrugh the village before you realize you've arrived!
Our arrival in Hogsback went largely unnoticed by the locals, except for the chap selling rural artifacts
at the entrance to the Forestry area at Oak Avenue. We didn't buy anything right away, as we wanted to get
into our first walk as soon as possible.
After a slight navigational hiccup, we ended up at the start of the walk leading to the foot of the
Kettlespout Falls, not the top of the falls as planned. Leaving the car in the charming dinky sized
parking area, Terry and the boys took some photographs at the nearby stream before they
all set off on the trail. Within metres it was easy to see just why Tolkien used Hogsback as his
inspiration for the Hobbit chronicles. Even the most hardened sceptic would not have been surprised
to find a fairy fluttering just above the undergrowth, or an elf perched jauntily on a rock next to the walking trail.
Terry and the boys managed the walk comfortably. Tony struggled. Middle-age, pot-belly and skinny legs
are not a good basis for a sedentary website designer to use for country walks.
However, all is well that ends well. Even though Terry, Tony and the boys did not get to the end of the walk,
once again due to mis-navigation, all concerned did enjoy the walk. Even the old guy. They decided to call
off that particular meander, and continue to the actual intended walk, being the walk to the top of
kettlespout. The road was found. The parking area was found. The walk was found. A relatively easy walk
to Kettlespout with only one spot that daunted Tony, who is a tad afraid of heights. The actual viewing
point was another matter for Tony. It is natural to be wary of robust and lively boys anywhere there
is even the faintest possibility they could fall. From Kettlespout its a long fall. While Terry hounded
and herded the boys, Tony cowered on the bench. The actual river that gushes off the lip of the cliff is in
fact nothing more than a little stream, easily crossed without getting your shoes wet.
After getting back to the car, Terry, Tony and the boys decided on the Madonna and Child Falls as the next
destination. Terry, Tony and the boys did stop to acquire a pair of mini warthogs. From there they drove back into
town, and swung left into Wolfridge road, past Woodlands restaurant, and then
directly to the Madonna and Child parking area. At the parking area they found another local selling decorated walking
sticks. Terry, Tony and the boys left him there and made their way downward. Ever downward.
Once again the magic of the area was bared. Until one can actually see the falls, tumbling off the cliff face,
one does not realize they are there. The area below the falls is rocky, and not large. To get to any
really close viewpoint one needs to believe in the Darwin Theory of evolution, and apply it. This however
does not detract from the absolute and sheer beauty of the Madonna and Child Waterfall.
It would have been the easiest thing in the world to stay down there.
But...
The worst habit mankind has is eating. It's impossible to get away from it. Especially with two boys.
Even more difficult if there is no packed lunch. There was nothing else to do but go back up.
Terry and the boys managed the walk comfortably. Tony struggled. Middle-age, pot-belly and skinny legs are not
a good basis for a sedentary website designer to use for country walks.
When Terry, Tony and the boys crested the Great Madonna and Child Waterfall Parking Area Summit, the boys decided
that they needed walking sticks. Fortunately the local entrepreneur was still there, and was more than eager to
sell two sticks to a foursome that didn't have small notes. He didn't have any change. A problem stared them
in the face on three fronts.The boys wanted, needed, had to have, couldn't live without sticks. The seller wanted,
needed, had to have, couldn't live without selling sticks. Thinking quickly, the entrepreneur averted a
national socio-ethnic trade related confrontation.
He suggested that he hand two walking sticks over, and that the foursome leave the money for them with the
manager of the Hogsback Supermarket. This was an offer Terry and Tony had to accept. The consequences of not
accepting would be catastrophical.
It was also extremely unusual to encounter this level of trust from a stranger. This man was willing and
prepared to part with items he made and sold, as a livelihood, with no immediate payment. Modern culture tells
us not to trust
anyone, even if you do have a Brittanica sized contract.
Terry, Tony and the boys found the supermarket, found an assortment of really cold soft drinks, left the money
with the manager. The next assignment for Terry, Tony and the boys was food. Find a place to feed at.
In the course of their Hogsback travels, Terry, Tony and the boys had passed Woodlands Restaurant several times,
and it seemed as good a place as any to eat at. The decision to stop at Woodlands was probably the best decision
of the day. Terry, Tony and the boys sat outside, in the shade of several massive oak trees. Service was prompt,
and friendly. Not just to take our order, but in the delivery time for the meals. Terry, Tony and the boys
were surprised at a number of little things. The quality of the meals was excellent. The quantity provided per
plate was absolutely sufficient. The condiments basket was delightful. The muffins were fresh. The juices were
cold, and tasty.
Well done Woodlands.
After lunch, Terry, Tony and the boys had intended tackling the Swallowtail Falls. Intended. Post-lunch lethargy
hit. Hard. It was decided that Swallowtail Falls, the Big Tree and Bridal Veil Falls would have to wait for a
return trip.
To complete the days agenda, Terry, Tony and the boys went to visit St Patrick on the Hill. This delightful
little church, set in a garden type landscape, is built from sandstone, with a thatch roof. Terry, Tony and
the boys explored as much of the church as they could, taking many photographs.
In any other setting, St Patrick on the hill would have been just another tiny church. In the magical Hogsback village,
St Patrick is a cathedral.
The call of nature dragged Terry, Tony and the boys from St Patrick. A quick visit to the facilities
at Woodlands had Terry, Tony and the boys relaxed. As it was still fairly early, and Terry, Tony and the
boys had as yet barely scratched at the Hogsback things to do and see scenario, it was agreed that a
visit to the eco-shrine would be a good idea. Unfortunately the eco shrine was closed that day. This is not a
problem, as Terry, Tony and the boys look forward to again driving down the tree-canopied driveway leading
to the eco-shrine.
Back on the road, it was turn left, stay left, until The Edge.
Terry, Tony and the boys made their way to the edge at The Edge, and the Labyrinth, via the delightful restaurant
at The Edge. From The Edge's edge there is a spectacular view of the cliff face on the opposite side of the
valley, and the valley further off to the left. The chalets at The Edge all share this wonderful and awesome
view. Approximately 50 metres from the fence that seperates the edge and falling down a sheer cliff, is
the Labyrinth. Terry and Tony sat. The boys walked the Labyrinth.
In closing. This is so cliche, but so true.
It was with reluctance that they had to leave Hogsback, and its awesome gigantic presence, intermingled
with its underlying magic.
In arriving at a destination such as this, it is unavoidable to take a part of its magic away with you.
The very action of taking from that magic, results in your having to leave a piece of yourself behind.
To return to.
Written by Terry and Tony
February 2009
Never Daunted self catering of Hogsback
have
linked to this page.
If other places in Hogsback would also like to link to this page, please find our email address on our homepage,
email us about a link exchange, and we will link back to your Hogsback website from this page.
Also see:
One night at Seagulls Beach hotel
Where to stay in East London
East London photographs and attractions
Whether you call it poi dancing or fire dancing it's happening
in East London
with Kevin Knock
The 2008 Surfers Marathon in East London was my 13th Surfers Marathon
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This website, and contents, © TnT Unleashed 2009
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whoooo.... thats hiiiiigh...
Madonna and Child Falls, Hogsback
St Patrick's church bell
Hogsback forest
and that water was cooold!
Round about the time Tony wanted to call a rescue team
From Kettle Spout, looking down at Hobbiton
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